Saturday, December 12, 2009

Grubby: Pommes Frites

Ok. This is kinda a gimme. Everyone has relied on this establishment, as one does a sponge, to soak up unwanted, or shall I say overwelcomed, fluids. I'm going to post it anyway, if only because I happened to take pictures there.

Ahh, yes, the Belgian frites place. Filled with ravenous grease seakers, drunk or otherwise, day and night. It is consistent. It is somewhat affordable. It offers a hundred sauces (Fairly useless most of them, I'm sure. Horseradish mayo was dissapointing despite my adoration for both ingredients). Despite believing myself fairly cosmopolitan, I still feel American shame and disgust darting from the eyes of onlookers if mayo is used as a dipping sauce. Freedom can be had on 2nd Ave! At this "Euro" establishment, I may shamelessly dunk in mayo to my heart's content (my heart likes it!). Me likey.

Info: you know where it is. Open when you've been drinking.

Grubby: David's Brisket House

Imagine, if you will, Katz's delicious pastrami or brisket sandwich piled high before you. Now, remember the $15 you handed over for this figmental grub. Your cheeks are burning with indignation, aren't they? How dare they take advantage of your taste buds like that.

What if I told you, that there exists a similarly delicious sandwich of comparable quality and it will only cost you $5. Incredulous? To Bedstuy I say! To David's! Brined beef for one and all!

David's Brisket House - right in the thick of it at Fulton and Nostrand (See A & A Bake and Doubles next). I know nothing about this place other than it is great and cheap.

I recently visited after gobbling down a doubles (next post) and enjoying a spicy ginger beer. A brisket sandwich was just what I needed for satiation. David's lived up to its somewhat minimal reputation.

Warm and juicy brisket. Rye bread that was actually the fluffiest and freshest I've had in NY (or ever maybe). Tri-pickle spears twisted in tissue - yes sir. Meat fairly fatty and therefore greasy - you'll love it. Gotta get pastrami next.

Info: Closed for shabbat I believe. Nostrand south of Fulton.

Grubby: A & A Bake and Doubles


In the pulsating heart of Bedstuy, at Fulton and Nostrand, sits A & A Bake and Doubles, a seat-less counter serving delicious Trinidadian short-eats - especially breakfast breads. I have come here today to praise the double.

A double(s) is a warm, squishy, irresistably chewy and sweet flatbread. It is sluiced with a brown, spicy chickpea curry. Then you have them add a mango/chili salsa to spice it some more. They twist it in tissue paper and place it in your hand for a DOLLAR. Yes, $1.

Biting into the sloppy, chewy warmth is really pleasant. It is an entirely original and unique taste and texture. Go!

Not recommended as a hangover treat.

Oustide:
Inside:


Info: Nostrand right north of Fulton, daytime only, open weird hours (closed 3 of the 5 times I've visited).

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Grubby: Porchetta

Playing catch up here. Porchetta has been hyped pretty big by Time Out and others. A porchetta is basically a slow-roasted boneless pork roast. At Porchetta in the East Village, rosemary and thyme crusted pork roast fills fresh, crusty Italian bread in a tasty, if not slightly high priced, $10 sandwich. It's a hole in the wall place - a couple of bench spots for eating in - with a big oven slow-roasting massive appendages of pork.

This sandwich really has to be all about the pork. And was it? Meh...kinda, I guess? Really, the highlight of the sandwich is the 10 or so pieces of cracklins, or fried pork skin, thrown in like delicous croutons on an underwhelming salad. Considering it is filled to the brim with pork that has been roasted for hours, little pieces of skin should not overwhelm my attention. The herbed edges of the pork were flavorfull but for flesh cooked over such a long time, I found it not nearly delicate enough and too dessicated. The bread and cracklins shouldn't be the highlight!

We also ordered some darkly roasted potatoes covered in thyme that were just fine. Again, not amazing. Listen, I'd try it again - I'm not going to damn it because of one sandwich. And you should try as well, because enough people have raved and the potential is absolutely there. But, I've warned you - the delicious inputs may not result in a satisfying output.

Info: 110 E 7th St. Open Daily 12-10.

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Grubby: New Asha Cafe

In 2005, Julia and I spent three months in Sri Lanka. It was a revelation. Spices, spices and more spices. For the first few weeks, scooping every bite of every meal with our fingers, the only taste was the inferno of chilis. But after we acclimated, we started to live for this food. Underneath the hot, there is so much going on in Sri Lankan cuisine. Star of Anise, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, nutmeg, turmeric, pepper - they are all there, lurking underneath the chili. And the coconut! Certain tastes are indelible and the dishes we'd eat on a regular basis - the daal, sambol, kotturoti, hoppers with egg, string hoppers - the taste is right there in the back of my brain and the back of my tongue.

I had been wanting to taste these flavors again and because of Sietsema, the New Asha Cafe was first on my list. Then Anthony Bourdain visits with Mr. Buster Poindexter and it all looks so good. A trip needed to be made immediately. So, I gathered the crew, asking them to please forget the memories of our last ill-fated trip to SI, and we boarded the ferry.



A 25 minute walk from the terminal and we found New Asha bordering other Sri Lankan establishments on a nondescript street in a nondescript storefront. Why there? These things just happen.

The owner was superlatively friendly - clearly we had read and watched the foodies and she wanted to impress. We ordered most everything I was hoping we could get. No hoppers - she didn't have the time. Two other dishes I was missing, pittu (coconut/rice flour rolls) and Sri Lankan roti (nothing like Indian, these are dense disks maybe 4 inches in diameter and topped with sambol), could not be had. But everything else was there.

We started by popping open some Lion lager and stout. Really terrific beer - we would buy a case of 22 oz bottles every five days or so during our stay. They didn't have my other favorite local brew Three Coins. Sri Lankans love beer and also drink pretty heavily.
Short eats were brought out. Fried pastries and rolls filled with veggies, meat or fish. These were underwhelming -they had been sitting out for awhile I think. But then the good stuff started coming.


String hoppers were a big hit. Cold patties of rice flour noodles, the these things soak up curries and yellow/green daal. Think of patties of angel hair covered with squishy food - really fun to eat with your fingers.
The sambol tasted just like I remember - chili, coconut, maldive fish ground into a flakey mix that you can, and should, put on everything. When we said we wanted more spice, we were brought a salsa like mix of chopped onions, tomatoes and peppers swimming in vinegar. Yes! It was immediately laced over every item on my plate.

Love the Kotturoti. We ate this constantly in Sri Lanka. Street food and drinking food - huge boxes of it would be bought for dimes. It is basically chopped up bread (roti) with veggies, egg and sauce. The preparation in Sri Lanka is a cacophonous spectacle with a capped chef chopping the mix in various drum rhythms against a beat grill - each order chopped at full volume for a minute or two. New Asha's kotturoti was authentic and actually my favorite dish there.

We then ordered two curries - a red prawn and the notorious black curry of chunky goat meat. Black curry is unique to Sri Lanka as far as I can tell, although I know nothing of it having not experienced it in-country.

Both curries underwhelmed me. The goat was pretty gristley and tough - not like the slow cooked goat I've had in birrias. And they were both by far the most expensive dishes - $22 each. Everything else was dirt cheap.



I would definitely recommend a trip out there. I can't say it is the best Sri Lankan around - there are a few Manhattan places we need to try - but it is authentic, delicious and cheap.


Info: New Asha - 322 Victory Blvd Staten Island, NY

Grubby: Bosna Express

Unless you lived in the neighborhood, there would be little reason to ever encounter it. But hidden, right below the Forest Ave M station, sits an unassuming one-table hole in the wall that serves shockingly great burgers. Marked by bright yellow signage, we approached Bosna Express somewhat increduously. Could this nondescript little stand with a single nervous employee grill the unique, yogurt sauced burger savored and cherished in blog postings and reviews throughout the interweb? The answer is a firm Yes...and how. Bosna Express specializes in Pljekavica, a frisbee sized meat patty eaten throughout the Balkans and seen sizzling here:

Ground beef and lamb are flattened into discs with minced white onion strewn throughout. While the circumference may be intimidating, the patties are super thin, which allows the griddle to almost create an outer seal or barrier which is popped with every juicy bite. The texture almost reminds me of those thin roach-coach patties - but the similarities stop there. These are fine quality ground meats placed lovingly into fresh baked bread of the near pita variety. The bread was really fantastic.



Lettuce and tomato are added with a creamy, yogurt based sauce. Shown here, a mild hot sauce was also provided. We ordered some extra yogurt to sloppify our burgers.


Two burgers served five people easily. And they are dirt cheap. We were only slightly harassed by drunk who would not accept that Bosna does not serve beer. If you go, may I suggest a side trip to Morcher's Pork Store . It is most triumphant.



Info: 791 Fairview Ave. Ridgewood, Queens

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Grubby: Cong Ly

A second post concerning my search for the premier Pho Tai. This one is at Cong Ly, a small, somewhat grimy place right off of Chrystie St. I'll be succinct here. I dug it - good, greasy broth. Still, haven't found my perfect pho broth in NY, but Cong Ly can certainly suffice when in need. Julia however found it too greasy. Below she laddles the top layer of grease.

And here you can definitely see the shiny surface caused by all that rendered fat. Of course it has been pocked by drops of Sriracha. The accoutrements weren't quite as fresh as the aforementioned Xe Lua but I found the broth tastier. And that pinnacle of energizing beveridges, the Vietnamese coffee, was delish. It is super cheap too. A strong pho option.


Info: 124 Hester St. Open Daily 9am-9pm

Grubby: Grand Sichuan

This is the original, separated from the 7 location Grand Sichuan chain known throughout the city. I'm not gonna talk about the other GS locations as I've had mixed experiences. This is about the OG. A lot of things look fantastic here (especially the tea smoked duck which I just must try), but I'm just going to talk about one dish, which I've had twice now: the hot pot.

When you walk into the spot (right next to one of the Boston-NY Chinatown bus companies) during dinner time, you will likely find every table occupied and a line out the door. And what is on nearly every table? A steaming pot of broth and piles of lovelies waiting to be cooked.

This shit is all about the SPICY. You've got two options for broth: a basic chicken broth and a red vulcan broth with chilies and peppercorns below. You can do one or get a divided bowl. Witness the fire - It is really fucking hot - you'll love it and beg for water several times during your meal. The veggies and meat are of good quality and fresh. The napa is crisp, clean and a must get. The beef, as seen below, is in nicely marbled, thin strips. Pork dumplings are another good meat choice. Tofu did not fare well; we do not recommend.


This is food for sharing and for conversing over.
Bring a nalgene or something. You'll need it.

Info: 125 Canal St. Open 7 days,
11:30am11pm

Monday, July 27, 2009

Grubby: Rafiqi's Halal Cart

Everyone has their fav lunchtime halal cart. Mine: Rafiqi's in midtown, corner of 31st and Broadway . When I worked at the Empire State Building I would grub on it weekly. It was the New York Times reviews proudly pasted to it's exterior that first drew me in.

Not the best photo, but what you see above is my order: lamb and chicken sandwich, lotsa of spicy red sauce, lotsa creamy white sauce. It KILLS. The chicken, mostly dark thigh meat, is covered in a red spice marinade. The lamb, superior to the chicken in most everyway, is cooked until almost crispy. I really love it and its greasy goodness.
It's only $3.75 too. If you are in Midtown looking for lunch on a weekday, you can do a lot worse than this




Saturday, July 25, 2009

Grubby: Russ and Daughters


Bagels. They scream NY but where are the ruling bagel spots? I'm certain allegiances to bakeries are dictated by where one lives or works. So I'm just taking shots in the dark. Russ and Daughters is loved by many and from what I gather, it is all about the lox. "The Heebster" (Whitefish & Baked Salmon Salad and Horseradish Cream Cheese on a Bagel) is often cited as a favorite. I have yet to venture into the fish zone, which is likely abhorrent to regulars. When I've gone to R&D my weakened weekend morning stomach has not been strong enough for an injection of fish. But I need to, cuz it looks fantastic.

The entire operation is a throwback - from the design and color schemes to the numbered ticket counter service, high quality printed butcher paper and bulk appetizers and food stuffs. The bagels - chewy and fresh but lacking an exterior crispness I prefer. The everything bagel is not tainted by the overpowering onion that most are. Only covered with sesame and poppy seeds, they are wholesome. The salty exterior is fantastic. I've tried both the horseradish and scallion cream cheese schmears - and as a lover of all things horseradish, I'm surprised to say that the scallion killed it for me. Large dices of really fresh green scallion mesh with the salty bread perfectly.

So, where do you go for your bagel fix? Highlights I need to visit? Comment, y'all.


Info: 179 East Houston St

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Grubby: Taci's Beyti

Krista has summoned us to this Midwood (unknown BK neighborhood) Turkish place twice now and we have been sated and pleased both times. Wild stuff here. And perhaps the best factor: BYOB. I love being able to bring our own booze in. While during our first visit, someone yanked a bottle of Ketel from their mother's fridge but we opted for Austin's finest during our second visit: Tito's Vodka (made from corn!). This was of course accompanied by wine and Baltika beer.
Here's the deal: it is cheap and good and full of lamb. God is great.

So, our visit tonight was in celebration of Krista's 30th. She is oooooold. But really I've been loving the 30's big time, so...Krista, the fun just started!

I believe that tonight we were under the vision of Taci himself. His mustacheod countenance was sitting across from us at a table situated below a framed 8x10" of himself ten years younger. He didn't seem to mind that we remained at the table drinking for two hours past our last bites of food.

And now on to the food...

Lamb is the name of the game here. Entrees are almost all meat based. But let me first begin with the appetizers.
Your typical Mediterranean/Middle Eastern appetizers are present. Chopped cucumber/tomato salad (with farmer's cheese) was a big hit. Eggplant appetizers, less so. The grilled eggplant, a bit too smokey. The baba ganoush was as I normally see it. This was a green, seedy, chunky and eggplanty ganoush - good for some, but as someone who hasn't quite fallen for eggplant, not appealing. It was nothing like the creamy dip presented at Salut or some of the other places I've written of. The cheese rolls, or "cheese cigars" as they were called by Lisa, were high class cheese sticks - feta supplanted for mozzarella and phyllo dough in place of breading. Fantastic. My favorite appetizer: tarator - "a very special mixture of tahini, yogurt, sour cream, fresh garlic and parsley". Sublime seeded bread triangles were great for dipping.

Entrees were all meat based and lamb was the meat of choice. It really is all about the meat here. Gyro and doner kabob satisfied all. The gyro meat was choice. The Iskender Kabob is the tomato-ey thing you see below. I'm on the wall here with this. I love the idea of crunchy pita squares and yogurt served with your meat. But something about it didn't quite ring my bell...and it was the tomato sauce. Loved the meat, loved the pita, loved the yogurt but that sauce. It just seemed canned or phoned in I guess. I don't know - thoughts?
The Karasik Pide threw me for a loop. Described as three kinds of meat (sausage, lamb and pastrami) in a cheesy pocket, it arrived looking like a delicious calzone. And it was...to some. The curing of the pastrami and sausage to me seemed off. I just wasn't feeling it - really gamey, not spicy. Basically, it was a gamey hot pocket. The lahmacun was basically a pita with chopped stuff on top (tomatoes, parsley, onion...), not that outstanding, but others seemed to like it.


Taci's Beyti is good stuff. I'm certainly not down on the place, I'm just trying to seperate the great items from the good.
This place is especially good for big parties. It's fucking BYOB and cheap. Go and bring your vodka, please.

Info: 1955 Coney Island Ave, Daily 12-11pm

Monday, June 29, 2009

Grubby: Xe Lua

We love us some pho. Really and truly. I didn't really become completely enamored with pho until I lived in New Orleans. There are two Vietnamese communities in New Orleans (East New Orleans and West Bank) that have been thriving since being established by war refugees in the 70's. The similar climate and the shrimping industry led them there I believe. I digress. I have yet to find a pho broth in NY that I love as much as those I've found down south, but I am determined to. Soon after moving here, I asked a friend of a friend if he had a preferred pho spot. He pulled out his wallet and handed me a business card for Xe Lua. Apparantly, he is horrible with directions as he needed the business card to lead him to the resturaunt several times a month.

We skipped the heo, bo, ga and ech seen above and headed straight for the pho tai - the basic beef pho, the baramoter. We were also pleased to find the Singaporean beer Tiger - a favorite (and strong too).
The pho arrived with the requisite plate of goodies. Fresh thai basil, crunchy bean sprouts, cilantro, lime and plenty o' jalapeno.


The broth was good not amazing. Good amount of salt from the fish sauce - and Sriracha and jalapenos provided the heat. The beef, basic - not rubbery but I could have had it a bit pinker. Vermicelli is vermicelli. The veggies were tops.

So, is it the best pho in NY? I can't say, but I hope there is better. Would I go back there? Absolutely - in a second. But until then, I'm ready for another spot. I've got to try as many as possible to find that flavor that will keep me from dreaming of that southern pho I fell in love with. Got recommendations?

Info: Open daily, 10-10. 86 Mulberry St.

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Grubby: Red Hook Ball Field Vendors

I just realized I haven't posted in June! My god. I've got a delicious backlog of tales to share.

Weeks ago, a gorgeous spring sun called us to Red Hook for our sixth Food Adventure. The Red Hook ball fields: all the amateur futbol and food stalls of Latin America, steps away from Ikea. It was my first trip to what is a perennial favorite of many New Yorkers and I was en rapt. Mexican, Dominican, Salvadoran (any others?) vendors line the ballfields and in turn a second line of hungry weekenders borders the turf.

First truck provided the best horchata I've ever had. Every sip resulting in an icey coating all the way to my stomach. And the cinammon - que rico. The jugo y liquado truck also made amaaaazing elotes. No skimping on the toppings, it's like a creamy corn popsicle.

Elote con mayonaisa, chile y queso:
With horchata in hand, I was suddenly confronted by Tim. He led me to the greatest of the food trucks, the north-west huarache mobile.
I've spent nearly a decade in southern California, home to the world's greatest Mexican food. This is indisputable by the way. In all my days and drunken evenings eating this cuisine, I had never encountered the huarache. But, my friends, they are real and they're spectacular. The huarache hails from Mexico City (I wiki'd it as soon as I got home). It is basically an open-faced burrito, but instead of a flour tortilla it is laid on a sandal (huarache)-shaped masa-based wrap.
I had the chorizo and would never think of ordering anything else. Dig it:
The huarache was a grease bomb and I've been craving another for weeks. Julia waited in the longest of lines for some pupusas. Here's the ladies droping that masa:
Look at this gorgeous pickled cabbage.

I've got to say, the pupusas were good, but not of the caliber found on earlier adventures (see El Comal, et al.). The futbol was Jamaicans v. Spanish speakers. Another group brought a travel hooka to their picnic bench, a novel idea to be mimiced. After loading up, we ventured to Melody Lanes for Peter (I called him Paul) 's cocktails and gutter balls. Amazingly, we got more Mexican for dinner after bowling.

Info: May to October, Sat and Sun, Red Hook.