I love how hungry Julia looks here.Open since March of this year, Paulie Gee's has made it's way into my circle of favorite pizzas. I even made it my pick for this year's birthday dinner. When Paulie himself discovered this news, a shot of homemade Limencello promptly arrived.
Paulie is likely to amble up to your table on most nights. He gave us the brief run-down on his deal. Briefly, former Wall St-oriented IT specialist is looking for something he's more passionate about to spend his time on, builds a killer pizza oven in his backyard (he showed us pics on his phone), spends some years practicing recipes and finally decides to take the plunge into starting his own restaurant. It is a fabulous space - lot's of great wood, interesting fixtures, base-less lamp shades, a gloriously beautiful pizza oven and piles of chopped wood. It can feel Twin Peaksian with the right Badalamenti-ish music.
So, we ordered 4 pies - all off of the special menu:
The Hellboy: Fior di Latte, Italian Tomatoes, Sopressata Picanten, Parmigiano Reggiano and Hot Honey
Red, White and Greenberg - Fior di Latte, Berkshire Guanciale, Pickled Red Onions and a Baby Arugula Garnish
Cherry Jones - Fior di Latte, Gorgonzola Cheese, Prosciutto di Parma, Dried Bing Cherries and Orange Blossom Honey
Anise and Anephew - Fior di Latte, Braised Fennel, Anisette Crème Drizzle, Berkshire Guanciale and Fennel Fronds
All four were fantastic, as were both salads - a Fennel/Orange and the Gates of Eden: Seasonal Greens, Gorgonzola Cheese, House Candied Walnuts, Red Onions, Dried Cherries, Bosc Pear and Red Wine Vinaigrette. The ingredients on Paulie's menu show up over and over again. I think they are still working on combinations, while knowing the individual tastes they like - Fennel, nice pork cuts, dried cherry, etc. There is a trend of blending sweet and savory - both the Hellboy and Cherry Jones had this going on.
The Hellboy and the Anise and Anephew were my two favorites. On the Red White and Greenberg, the pickled onions really stood out, almost overpowering the pork jowl...and I love pickled onions. Cherry Jones had the most satisfying first bites, but the sweetness of the dessicated cherries and orange blossom honey got a bit sickly after a slice. I would happily eat it again, but would likely order something else.
The hot honey was wonderful with the Sopresseta. This was the only pie with tomato that we ordered and the savoriness of tomato/meat/honey was incredibly satisfying. The Anise and Anephew is ruled by the creme. I'm not necessarily a fennel/anise fan, but the braised fennel is very mellow. Just a really rich slice.
Info: 60 Greenpoint Avenue. Closed Mons. Dinner only.
