Leske's Bakery

So you find yourself trudging through the Bay Ridge Century 21 and your blood sugar is dropping. You are about to just freak out and smack somebody with an overstock camouflage pair of Sketchers. Walk away. Go two blocks and get yo self something sweet.


Leske's is just filled with great looking pastries. The black and white cookie is cake-like and uses a soft creamy frosting as opposed to the more firm ganache-style some bakeries use.

Cream puff was dreamy.



Info:7612 Fifth Ave.

Karam

If you've ever spent extended time in Los Angeles and then moved away, there might not be much you miss. But if you are a sentient, self-aware being, I bet I can name at least one thing you long for: Zankou chicken garlic sauce.

I have found the closest thing to it in NY and it is at Karam, an insanely affordable Lebanese joint in Bay Ridge.



Look at this huge fucking pile of garlic sauce!


Jeez it is so good. Sharp, tangy, sinus-clearing, I'm happy to say this sauce hangs with Zankou.
The scent of garlic will ooze from your pores for hours, or days if you coat your food as I do.



Your first choice shall center on Rotisserie Chicken or Shawerma (this is not a choice for me as I shun chicken at nearly all opportunities for meat with actual flavor). Second choice is platter or pita sandwich.

You are provided with fuchsia-colored pickled radish and spicy little hot peppers, just as in LA. The shawerma is top notch. Oh my god, I want some right now.

Another bowl of extra sauce and homemade sweet lemonade:

Oregano saturated cheese bread:

Fantastic and uber-cheap. Go!
Info: 8519 4th Avenue

Saltie

Saltie provides Williamsburg with something it greatly needs: a lunch-focused gourmet sandwich. It is a cleanly designed, take away-centric spot, with a few counter stools for eating in. The entire menu looks fabulous. In addition to sandwiches, they also serve pastries and ice cream.

Most everything here is served on sea salt topped Focaccia, with a good ratio of oil to crispness. The salt adds a strong crunch that is appreciated.

My recent purchase was a "Little Chef": Mortadella, Pecorino, Green Olive and Parsley. Very basic, very salty. The olive is chopped up in a muffaleta-like olive salad. Over extremely large parsley leaves, some olive oil is drizzled. The mortadella and pecorino brought a wonderful salt-nutty, combination. It is a great sandwich. This should be your go-to for daytime Williamsburg eats.
From the Saltie website:Info: 378 Metropolitan Avenue. 10am-6pm, closed Mondays.

Paulie Gee's

I love how hungry Julia looks here.

Open since March of this year, Paulie Gee's has made it's way into my circle of favorite pizzas. I even made it my pick for this year's birthday dinner. When Paulie himself discovered this news, a shot of homemade Limencello promptly arrived.
Paulie is likely to amble up to your table on most nights. He gave us the brief run-down on his deal. Briefly, former Wall St-oriented IT specialist is looking for something he's more passionate about to spend his time on, builds a killer pizza oven in his backyard (he showed us pics on his phone), spends some years practicing recipes and finally decides to take the plunge into starting his own restaurant. It is a fabulous space - lot's of great wood, interesting fixtures, base-less lamp shades, a gloriously beautiful pizza oven and piles of chopped wood. It can feel Twin Peaksian with the right Badalamenti-ish music.

So, we ordered 4 pies - all off of the special menu:

The Hellboy: Fior di Latte, Italian Tomatoes, Sopressata Picanten, Parmigiano Reggiano and Hot Honey
Red, White and Greenberg - Fior di Latte, Berkshire Guanciale, Pickled Red Onions and a Baby Arugula Garnish

Cherry Jones - Fior di Latte, Gorgonzola Cheese, Prosciutto di Parma, Dried Bing Cherries and Orange Blossom Honey

Anise and Anephew - Fior di Latte, Braised Fennel, Anisette Crème Drizzle, Berkshire Guanciale and Fennel Fronds
All four were fantastic, as were both salads - a Fennel/Orange and the Gates of Eden: Seasonal Greens, Gorgonzola Cheese, House Candied Walnuts, Red Onions, Dried Cherries, Bosc Pear and Red Wine Vinaigrette. The ingredients on Paulie's menu show up over and over again. I think they are still working on combinations, while knowing the individual tastes they like - Fennel, nice pork cuts, dried cherry, etc. There is a trend of blending sweet and savory - both the Hellboy and Cherry Jones had this going on.

The Hellboy and the Anise and Anephew were my two favorites. On the Red White and Greenberg, the pickled onions really stood out, almost overpowering the pork jowl...and I love pickled onions. Cherry Jones had the most satisfying first bites, but the sweetness of the dessicated cherries and orange blossom honey got a bit sickly after a slice. I would happily eat it again, but would likely order something else.
The hot honey was wonderful with the Sopresseta. This was the only pie with tomato that we ordered and the savoriness of tomato/meat/honey was incredibly satisfying. The Anise and Anephew is ruled by the creme. I'm not necessarily a fennel/anise fan, but the braised fennel is very mellow. Just a really rich slice.

Info: 60 Greenpoint Avenue. Closed Mons. Dinner only.

Grubby: David's Brisket House

Imagine, if you will, Katz's delicious pastrami or brisket sandwich piled high before you. Now, remember the $15 you handed over for this figmental grub. Your cheeks are burning with indignation, aren't they? How dare they take advantage of your taste buds like that.

What if I told you, that there exists a similarly delicious sandwich of comparable quality and it will only cost you $5. Incredulous? To Bedstuy I say! To David's! Brined beef for one and all!

David's Brisket House - right in the thick of it at Fulton and Nostrand (See A & A Bake and Doubles next). I know nothing about this place other than it is great and cheap.

I recently visited after gobbling down a doubles (next post) and enjoying a spicy ginger beer. A brisket sandwich was just what I needed for satiation. David's lived up to its somewhat minimal reputation.

Warm and juicy brisket. Rye bread that was actually the fluffiest and freshest I've had in NY (or ever maybe). Tri-pickle spears twisted in tissue - yes sir. Meat fairly fatty and therefore greasy - you'll love it. Gotta get pastrami next.

Info: Closed for shabbat I believe. Nostrand south of Fulton.

Grubby: A & A Bake and Doubles

In the pulsating heart of Bedstuy, at Fulton and Nostrand, sits A & A Bake and Doubles, a seat-less counter serving delicious Trinidadian short-eats - especially breakfast breads. I have come here today to praise the double.

A double(s) is a warm, squishy, irresistably chewy and sweet flatbread. It is sluiced with a brown, spicy chickpea curry. Then you have them add a mango/chili salsa to spice it some more. They twist it in tissue paper and place it in your hand for a DOLLAR. Yes, $1.

Biting into the sloppy, chewy warmth is really pleasant. It is an entirely original and unique taste and texture. Go!

Not recommended as a hangover treat.

Oustide:
Inside:


Info: Nostrand right north of Fulton, daytime only, open weird hours (closed 3 of the 5 times I've visited).

Grubby: Taci's Beyti

Krista has summoned us to this Midwood (unknown BK neighborhood) Turkish place twice now and we have been sated and pleased both times. Wild stuff here. And perhaps the best factor: BYOB. I love being able to bring our own booze in. While during our first visit, someone yanked a bottle of Ketel from their mother's fridge but we opted for Austin's finest during our second visit: Tito's Vodka (made from corn!). This was of course accompanied by wine and Baltika beer.
Here's the deal: it is cheap and good and full of lamb. God is great.

So, our visit tonight was in celebration of Krista's 30th. She is oooooold. But really I've been loving the 30's big time, so...Krista, the fun just started!

I believe that tonight we were under the vision of Taci himself. His mustacheod countenance was sitting across from us at a table situated below a framed 8x10" of himself ten years younger. He didn't seem to mind that we remained at the table drinking for two hours past our last bites of food.

And now on to the food...

Lamb is the name of the game here. Entrees are almost all meat based. But let me first begin with the appetizers.
Your typical Mediterranean/Middle Eastern appetizers are present. Chopped cucumber/tomato salad (with farmer's cheese) was a big hit. Eggplant appetizers, less so. The grilled eggplant, a bit too smokey. The baba ganoush was as I normally see it. This was a green, seedy, chunky and eggplanty ganoush - good for some, but as someone who hasn't quite fallen for eggplant, not appealing. It was nothing like the creamy dip presented at Salut or some of the other places I've written of. The cheese rolls, or "cheese cigars" as they were called by Lisa, were high class cheese sticks - feta supplanted for mozzarella and phyllo dough in place of breading. Fantastic. My favorite appetizer: tarator - "a very special mixture of tahini, yogurt, sour cream, fresh garlic and parsley". Sublime seeded bread triangles were great for dipping.

Entrees were all meat based and lamb was the meat of choice. It really is all about the meat here. Gyro and doner kabob satisfied all. The gyro meat was choice. The Iskender Kabob is the tomato-ey thing you see below. I'm on the wall here with this. I love the idea of crunchy pita squares and yogurt served with your meat. But something about it didn't quite ring my bell...and it was the tomato sauce. Loved the meat, loved the pita, loved the yogurt but that sauce. It just seemed canned or phoned in I guess. I don't know - thoughts?
The Karasik Pide threw me for a loop. Described as three kinds of meat (sausage, lamb and pastrami) in a cheesy pocket, it arrived looking like a delicious calzone. And it was...to some. The curing of the pastrami and sausage to me seemed off. I just wasn't feeling it - really gamey, not spicy. Basically, it was a gamey hot pocket. The lahmacun was basically a pita with chopped stuff on top (tomatoes, parsley, onion...), not that outstanding, but others seemed to like it.


Taci's Beyti is good stuff. I'm certainly not down on the place, I'm just trying to seperate the great items from the good.
This place is especially good for big parties. It's fucking BYOB and cheap. Go and bring your vodka, please.

Info: 1955 Coney Island Ave, Daily 12-11pm

Grubby: Red Hook Ball Field Vendors

I just realized I haven't posted in June! My god. I've got a delicious backlog of tales to share.

Weeks ago, a gorgeous spring sun called us to Red Hook for our sixth Food Adventure. The Red Hook ball fields: all the amateur futbol and food stalls of Latin America, steps away from Ikea. It was my first trip to what is a perennial favorite of many New Yorkers and I was en rapt. Mexican, Dominican, Salvadoran (any others?) vendors line the ballfields and in turn a second line of hungry weekenders borders the turf.

First truck provided the best horchata I've ever had. Every sip resulting in an icey coating all the way to my stomach. And the cinammon - que rico. The jugo y liquado truck also made amaaaazing elotes. No skimping on the toppings, it's like a creamy corn popsicle.

Elote con mayonaisa, chile y queso:
With horchata in hand, I was suddenly confronted by Tim. He led me to the greatest of the food trucks, the north-west huarache mobile.
I've spent nearly a decade in southern California, home to the world's greatest Mexican food. This is indisputable by the way. In all my days and drunken evenings eating this cuisine, I had never encountered the huarache. But, my friends, they are real and they're spectacular. The huarache hails from Mexico City (I wiki'd it as soon as I got home). It is basically an open-faced burrito, but instead of a flour tortilla it is laid on a sandal (huarache)-shaped masa-based wrap.
I had the chorizo and would never think of ordering anything else. Dig it:

The huarache was a grease bomb and I've been craving another for weeks. Julia waited in the longest of lines for some pupusas. Here's the ladies droping that masa:
Look at this gorgeous pickled cabbage.

I've got to say, the pupusas were good, but not of the caliber found on earlier adventures (see El Comal, et al.). The futbol was Jamaicans v. Spanish speakers. Another group brought a travel hooka to their picnic bench, a novel idea to be mimiced. After loading up, we ventured to Melody Lanes for Peter (I called him Paul) 's cocktails and gutter balls. Amazingly, we got more Mexican for dinner after bowling.

Info: May to October, Sat and Sun, Red Hook.

Grubby: Tacos Matamoros

Amazingly, post- Bud pitchers, we found ourselves peckish only hours after inhaling huaraches etc. Being in Sunset Park, tacos were the clear choice. Stepping out of the Melody Lane haze, a rapid i-phone search led us to Tacos Matamoros.

These were real - reminded me of many a Baja roadtrip. Tacos like these weren't common in San Diego, but minutes across the border, they are all you can get. Two corn tortillas, a hefty spoonfull of grilled meat, raw onions, cilantro. That's it. Far and away, the winner here was again Chorizo. That makes Chorizo 2-0, 2KOs in one day. Can't say it was any better or worse than the rest of Sunset Park joints, but it was good and sufficient.
After two or three more tacos, we were done. Gets me thinking that is damn near time for another Food Adventure.

Full Stan:
Info: 5th Ave, Sunset Park. BYOB

Boozey: Spuyten Duyvil

+ Great selection of beer, especially for Belgian bottles.
- No spirits.
+ Across the street from Fette Sau
+ One beer always in the room temp cask.
++ Great yard
- No tunes
- Williamsburg

Boozey: Trophy Bar

I was going to wipe out the Boozey portion of this blog - I've got very little to say and, frankly, am completely uninspired by bars here. There is little point and I'm not going to take pictures and rate every fucking bar I walk into. It'd be like a punch to the nuts.

But...nonetheless, for the time being, I'm just going to make a small note of bars that are in some way reasonable, just so they are noted for any future need.

Trophy Bar:
We felt old there.
- Young people with hideous thrift store glasses frames everywhere.
+ Close to our place. Can walk home.
+ Cheap Beer/shot special
+ Good Tunes (garage dj last night)

Grubby: TipicoBK

On a recent Friday night, we were led by Stan to this new Williamsburg spot. I have no idea what really constitutes Paraguayan food, but it was similar in some ways to the Argentinean food I've had in the past.
Pictured below is a steak milenesa. The egg made this thing - runny yolk and crispy fried breading, so good.





Stan is eating some stew here. This and the pulled pork sandwich were both enjoyed.
They have yerba mate too, nice.
Honestly, we'll see if this place makes it. I could see it folding but hopefully it lasts as it is a good option in the area.

I will not go into what occurred after dinner, but it included a trip to the most depressing emergency room in NY. Get better Krista!

Grubby: La Isla Chuchifritos

Just say it..."chuchifritos". Isn't it fun?

The Isle of Little Fried Things. As much as you might think you would want to be stranded there, you don't. Nonetheless, being the closest place for food near my apartment, Chuchifritos has come through.

Pictured here is a greasy queso pastilillo. Fried meat things, fried cheese things, fried plantains, blood sausage, cuban sandwiches, etc., are available. I basically stick with the fried cheese or meat pastilillos - only $1.

It's also got some nice, cheap rotisserie chicken. The dude will wield his cleaver and chop you up a moist bird - take it home with some beans and rice, good for 3-4 meals.

Listen, if you are in the hood, there aren't a lot of great options. The Isla is open late. It is consistent - you know what you are getting and sometimes a fried meat filled pastry is what you need.

Info: Graham and Broadway

Grubby: Bonnie's

I love Buffalo Wings. I love Blue Cheese. I love the two together - many do not. Given this, wings never really peak for me. They are either very good, mediocre, or awful. Never amazing.

So what. Bonnie's did me right...big time. Nice amount of vinegar with the spice - the medium level was spicy enough (though I might go with hot next time). I had to order two extra blue cheeses.

Thanks to Krista and Joel for sharing this Park Slope spot. 5 or so taps running. They weren't playing annoying sports on loud TVs.


Info: 278 5 thAve. Open 7 days.

Boozey: Melody Lanes

Oh man. This fucking bartender rules. I don't know much about him (Peter?) - so if you do, let us know. I know he likes Rocky and prefers to watch his movies on bootlegged versions so he can hear the audience.


Apparently, this is one of the only bars in this neighborhood, but it is absolutely worth seeking out if you have a soul. By that I mean, if you don't like bowling, you may be a zombie.

During a recent Sunday afternoon, there was poker on one table, dominos on the other, and America's Funniest Videos (no longer Home Videos, thanks Stan) on the TV. Drinks seem to be of varying strength depending on the bartender but pitchers are cheap.

Did I mention its a bowling alley?


Info: 461 37th St, Open 7 days

Boozey: Freddy's Bar & O'Connor's Bar

I'm sure I am deeply offending many people for lumping these two together, but I really think they might be the same place. And I like that place!

If you find yourself in the depressing wasteland of Atlantic Center, do yourself a favor and tell your wife she can browse the Marshall's for another hour and then hightail it to one of these spots.

Both are elongated bars with nice tables. Both have jukes (O'Connor's juke has not dissapointed). Both are drinking bars with patrons and tenders that know what a drink should look like.

Thanks to Aubrey and Dave for showing me the light.

Freddy's: 6th and Dean
O'Connor's: 5th and Bergen

Grubby: Cafe Glechik

I'm just going to get this out of the way now. A lot of the places I end up loving, I have found through Robert Sietsema's excellent writing. This is one of those treasures.

Why go to Brighton Beach you ask? Well, Glechik should be reason #1. (If you have other reasons, please inform - I know there must be lots of cool shit going down but I'm in the dark).

This is home cooking. I think. I don't come from a Russian/Ukrainian home. But I'd imagine your grandma might cook like this, if she were good for anything.

Everything on the menu is pretty good - I don't think anyone has ever ordered a dissapointing dish. Start with pickled vegetables (including pickled watermelon). Order a couple pitchers of juicy compote and a nice, raisin-y Kvas. And go to town. The varenikis (dumplings), sprinkled with wonderful crispy, fried onions, and pelmeni (also a dumpling) are great. Get the pelmeni "Moscow" for cheese and egg. Order sour cream - it is necessary.


Everything is pretty great - stroganoff, schnitzel, fries covered in garlic and parsley, but the real gem here is the Stew "Glechik". An impossibly dark brown, thick gravy surrounds dumplings and two deliciously slow-cooked chunks of what I'm assuming is lamb on the bone. It's intoxicating.

Take a group - although they always seem a little unsure of what to do with big groups. Bring your own vodka.



And get some sour cherry vareniki for dessert.


Info: Open 7 days 9am-10pm, 3159 Coney Island Ave.